Pleasure & predicament of journey to Pakistan
by Tejinder Singh Rawal Wednesday, February 16 2005 17:44 Hrs (IST) - World Time -
Part II
Experiences in Pakistan:
I had heard a lot about Lahore from my parents and grandparents, and was obviously not interested in sleeping, but would rather like to visit places even if it was in the middle of the night.
When I told this to Major Ajmal Masoon, Assistant Manager, ICAP, he readily obliged, and took us straight to the Food Street at Gawalmandi. It is a pedestrians' lane, surrounded by pre-partition Indian architecture. It offers the choicest of Mughlai, Lahori, Pakistani and barbecue cuisine at a very reasonable price.
Even at such odd hours, I could see so many people glutting, indeed Lahoris are voracious eaters whose lives revolve around food!
Next morning, we began our trip in the alleys and lanes of Anarkali, a place that is most fascinating. You name anything and you get it here, whether it is leather goods or handicrafts or ethnic wears or anything under the Sun. Legend has it that the bazaar was named after Anarkali, Akbar's courtesan.
She, according to the legend, was put to death by Emperor Akbar for having a love affair with prince Salim, later came to be known as Jehangir.
Anarkali is the place to discover the old world charm, the glib-talking shopkeepers who were obviously enthused to see Indians visiting them, would not let you go without buying their stuff. The Food Street in Anarkali was a connoisseur's delight with a wide variety of food and it is sure to add inches to your waistline.
What is most amazing is the attitude of the people in Pakistan. I being a turban wearing Sikh am too conspicuous to be ignored.
"Sardarji Sat-sri-akal" the greetings followed me wherever I went. And I would reply to them with the same enthusiasm. People stopped us for no reasons just to greet us.
"Assi twade tabedaar haan, tusi saade mulk aaye ho" (We are grateful to you for having come here) was what was echoed everywhere we went. The offer to have a cup of tea with them was difficult to refuse, with the result that every few minutes I would be found sipping a cup of tea with a stranger who would narrate his experiences with great enthusiasm and would suggest that the border should be thrown open for the public of both countries to visit each other without restrictions.
The shopkeepers would refuse to take money for the goods bought saying that they will not take any money from their guests. One small shop owner selling imarti was in tears when I offered him the money for a few pieces of piping hot imartis I had bought from him, "Tusi saade mehman o, assi Lahoriye pyaar de pukkhe haan, paise de nai" (You are our guests, we Lahoris want your love not money) Even the autorikshaw-wallah would accept the fare only after much insistence!!
One of the most prominent structures in Lahore is the massive Lahore Fort which was built by Akbar in the 1560s, and which towers over the old city of Lahore. Then there is the famous Minar-e-Pakistan, where the Muslim League first passed a resolution for a separate Muslim nation.
Opposite the Lahore Fort is the samadh of Guru Arjan Dev, who lost his life while fighting near here in the waters of the Ravi River, which used to flow past the Fort walls those days. Samadhi of Maharaja Ranjit Singh is located outside Lahore Fort.
More than the prominent historical buildings and structure, it is the bright dresses, beautiful women, warm hospitality, the hustle and bustle of the city and a happy-go-lucky attitude of people with genuine love for their own brethren from India, which left me spellbound, despite what politicians on both sides of the border say!
Speaking of politicians, the Chief Guest in the ICAP Conference was Omar Ayub Khan, Minister of State for Finance, Pakistan, son of the ex-Foreign Minister Gohar Ayub and the grandson the ex-President Field Marshall Ayub Khan.
A very impressive young man Omar Ayub Khan spoke at length about the state of Pakistan economy and the rapid pace of progress of the country under the regime of the President Musharraf.
A very impressive speech it was from a very learned Minister. However, the topic suddenly changed to Kashmir and he advised the Indian guests to "pressurise your government" to solve the Kashmir problem.
It was a quick aside, and the Minister quickly resumed his earlier discussion. Obviously, the politician had not forgotten that he would not be able to justify his existence to many unless he touched upon the Kashmir issue.
Later, in a private conversation with the Minister, I found that he had great love for the Sikhs, ostensibly because his roommate for 4 years during his University studies in the USA was a Sikh.
On my return journey a wise old Lahori smiled and remaked; "Tussi hun jum paye ho" (You are now born, having visited Lahore).
More Features Headlines
