Friday, April 22 2005 19:17 Hrs (IST) - World Time -

New Delhi: Geisha designs started the show with a collection called, "Heat and Sand". Geisha Designs are known for their very delicate and feminine embroideries and this is exactly what Geisha presented in their first sequence. Mainly in beiges and ecrus, it had a very soft and subtle feel. They were some obvious Indian references though - and the collection had a Victorian feel.

For instance, long sleeved semi transparent t-shirts were teamed with an embroidered backless choli. Lengha style skirts were teamed with similar t-shirts, over which a long spaghetti top was worn. Layering was the key. Embroidery had a very royal effect with one lone sleeved having jadau necklace resembling embellishment around the neck. Despite this all the clothes had a very western feel and the reference to European history were obvious. Bustle like skirts were worn with short capri with kanta and a Mosquito embellishment on the corner of the trouser leg.

Form this, the duo moved into a fairly more dramatic line called "African Queen". Not what you normally expect from Geisha; this collection had an Indian folk like feel as blacks were teamed with vibrant rusts and corals, and the tribal beading added to the very rural feel of this sequence. Motifs from Gujarat and Rajasthan added to the effect. All models wore faux fur tied around the necks, which added a sense of luxury.

The finals sequence again had references to European History, light aqua blues and white gave this collection a very young lady appeal. Reverse applique in Marie Antoinette floral added an English Garden feel. The embroideries looked very much like they came from a delicate garden gazebo. Though there was touch of India in this collection a straight skirts opened at the front to reveal pleats adding a sari like quality.

Anjana Bhargava

Anjana's collection celebrated the moods of white, as her collection was entirely in shades of this colour. Gauzes and handspun fabrics, crochet gave this collection a soft feel, but it also had a very hard side thank to the surface texturing and the many of the tops were backless.

Silhouettes went to the skirt, with asymmetrical being the preferred cut. Trousers too were dhoti-inspired, giving this collection a very fluid outlook. There were also references to the Victorian age in this collection as ruffled neck blouses and underskirts were shown. Cowl necks were another neckline used by Anjana. Added interest was given to the back with diamante clasps, and jackets were fastened with a singular diamante button. Gold was used but it was very subtle, and surface ornamentation was the chosen form of embellishment.

Anjana ended her show with a small collection of sari, each were teamed with very unusual looking tops, as opposed to the normal choli. High coloured ruffle neck tops and layered tops, almost resembling a wedding cake, were put together with saris. The showstopper was a lengha worn with a short jacket and the skirt a strong silver trim - obviously the base colour was white!