Monday, April 25 2005 16:55 Hrs (IST) - World Time -

New Delhi: "Invasions from the North," was the inspiration for Raghavendra Rathore's line. Four different stories were presented both for men and women.

Each had a very royal feel to it; thanks to his cuts (the bandgala has always been a source of inspiration), and his use of silks. The first collection had bias-cut kurtas worn over slim pants, as well as long sleeved t-shirts with breech style pants.

Simple black shirts were worn with floor length quilted skirts. Most of these had prints of army crosses and chains on it. The colour palette was dark and mainly black. There was obvious military influence as men wore khaki half sleeve military shirts with trousers. Polo T-shirts added a sporty touch. Most of the clothes had a classic feel and his bandgalas this year were very fitted. Even the men's shirts were ultra fits; cuts were very close to the body.

Gold was prominent in the second line; it had been used for creating a pinstripe effect on black jacket-like tops. Sandy browns and wine reds were introduced to break up the blacks. It was a classis colour palette for a classic line.

Tie- ups were another important detail whether on the back of shirts or down the sides of trousers. Army style pockets reinforced the military look. Cuffs were a focus point with sleeves often rolled up; there were also three-quarter French style cuffs. Pants were slim and there was even a pair of ultra fitted jersey pants worn so long that they hugged the heels of the shoes. Breeches were a must for men as well women.

Another print introduced in the last line had an enlarged piece of jewellery. This apparently was taken from a picture of a real piece of jewellery that had been pilfered many centuries ago. The bias cut kurta with long slits, or bandgala detailing on tops gave his styles a regal look. Attention was paid to detail, beautiful handkerchiefs were placed in the top pockets of all bandgalas and linings were paid special attention or were often made of more than one colour. The collection was all about refinement.